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Page 2

Let's finish casting these babies!

Step 4.

Before adding the remaining plaster, spray your mold with the release agent (or cooking spray). Spray it evenly without allowing it to puddle too much in the recesses. I tend to hold my sprayer about 6 inches away from the mold so that I get a nice light coat that goes on smoothly and evenly.

Step 5.

Add the remaining powdered plaster of paris to the water a little at a time, stiring briskly with your whisk until it's nice and smooth. (Not pictured).

Step 6.

Gently pour the plaster mixture in to the center of the mold. Once it is filled to the top, lift the mold up off the surface and tap it back down gently to bring any air bubbles to the surface.

I try not to "over fill" the mold if I can help it.

Step 7. Use  your squeegee to level off the plaster. This will give you a nice flat back on your plaster piece. It's not absolutely necessary, but I like doing it to ensure a good piece. You can also use the flat edge of a piece of cardboard or any other flat edged item.

Step 8.

Give the plaster time to set up. About 30-45 minutes is typically necessary for your plaster to set up good and hard. You will find that the plaster actually heats up as it is setting up. As long as it's still warm to the touch, it is NOT ready! If you remove your piece from the mold before it has completely hardened, it will break and you will have wasted your time.

If you would like to "hang" your plaster pieces instead of mount them to your walls with joint compound, simply fashion a little wire hanger (make a "U" shape with fishhook ends") and insert it in to the back of the plaster while it is still wet and it will dry good and solid in there.

Step 9.

Turn the mold over and lightly press on it's front until the mold "pops out". Sometimes you have to gently work at it a little bit, but as you use your mold over and over, it will become easier to take the pieces out and in many case, they will simply "fall" out so be careful not to hold them over the floor so that they drop and break.

Step 10.

If you have sort of a "rough" edge around the piece, simply take the edge of a sharp knife, fingernail file or similar object and scrape it smooth. This is VERY easy to do while the piece is fresh out of the mold because it hasn't totally dried super hard yet.

You can apply your piece to the wall right after it comes out of the mold, but handle it with care since it will take another 24-48 hours for it to become rock hard and bright white in color. It's weight will also change to become much lighter as all of the water evaporates.

If you click on the photo to enlarge it, you will see a small "hole" where the plaster was "thin" in that area. This means that my mold was not fully filled or that it might not have been level at the time that I poured it.

No fear! This won't be a bother since when I apply to the wall, (or furniture, etc) the back will be covered with joint compound and the hole will disappear.
 

 

(Click Photos to Enlarge)

Click here to see how to apply them to the walls!

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Exciting News!
Victoria's husband Dana has finally released his fabulous "Smooth Jazz" CD that includes Victoria's single "Gravity".

Give a listen for free at
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today!

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All Stencil Product designs Copyright © 1990-2008 by Victoria Larsen.  All Rights Reserved.  Website designed, created, and maintained by Larsen Productions.  All images, graphics, and intellectual content are © Copyright Victoria Larsen 1990 - 2008. All rights reserved. Content may not be reproduced for any commercial intent or purposes without expressed written consent.  This website is dedicated to the loving memory of Joyce Bakken, Brandon Layton and Dorothy Kirkwood.   
Last modified: 07/07/08