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With summer now here, we’re all wanting to “do” and “re-do” to make our homes more attractive and “finished” looking. Paint is one of the least expensive ways in which to do that and summer is the optimum time since doors and windows can be wide open for quicker drying and better ventilation. So let’s take a look at some painting surface applications and some totally cool effects YOU can achieve.

Hate your old Formica countertops and don’t want to replace them? PAINT THEM!

Painting over Formica is much less expensive than replacement (especially if like mine, your countertops are in perfect condition).

We just purchased a home in the mountains where though the home is only 5 years old, the color scheme leaves much to be desired so I’m about to change the relatively new, and very “lavender” Formica countertops to a neutral granite finish and here’s how:

The first step is to prepare the surface:

Step 1: Removal of grease, soap films or oils is necessary so use a solution of ammonia and water mixed half and half. Give it a good scrub down and rinse well.

Step 2: Next, use a mild acid solution (available from a number of different companies and used to clean ceramic tile. It’s found in your local home store in the tile area) to slightly etch the surface which will result in better adhesion of the paint. Rinse well and let it dry.

Step 3: The primer comes next and is a vital part to your total success. It creates a base for the paint color to adhere to, helping to prevent chips as you use your surface. Oil based primers are best since they help to create maximum durability. Especially in areas where water is present, such as countertops, back splashes and tub surrounds.

Step 4: Now comes the fun part! You will want two coats of good oil based paint. Paint a base coat with the first application, then the second coat can be your faux finish techniques. Again, oil based products provide a much more durable surface than water based. Allow your paint to dry and cure for a minimum of 48 hours. During this time DO NOT set anything on the surface since it can leave slight impressions.

Step 5: Apply two coats of High-gloss polyurethane (allowing each to dry 24 hours in between) for a smooth, glossy surface that is super durable! Always remember to use stroke your brush in only 1 direction for optimum results.

You will need paint thinner or mineral spirits for your clean up rather than soap and water.

Give the entire project two to three weeks to completely cure. You should avoid any harsh abrasive cleaners. When necessary, use a soft scrub product instead. Since it is not advisable to set hot pots and pans on to the surface or as with any countertop, to use it as a cutting board, keep hot pads and cutting boards within easy reach for forgetful family members.

Now for the opportunity to decide on just what finish you would like! Here are some of my favorites:

(Please note that if you have never done one of these finishes to practice a bit on a test board before applying permanently on your surface, they are easy but you want to work out any bugs before beginning).

Here are some fun faux finishes that are simple and with just a hint of practice, can turn your home or some inexpensive furniture piece in to something you will treasure!

Wood Grain:

This is one I have so much fun with because even though it “sounds” weird, it’s a kick in the pants to do!

OK, take a look at any wood surface in your home. Look past the actual grain of the wood and look at its “base” color (the background color). It can range anywhere from a light yellow sand color to a rich “paprika”/orange color to a light to medium “brown”. Different natural woods have different colors and each color can vary in intensity and hugh.

Decide on your base color (my favorite is paprika since it gives a deep rich tone to my finished product much like aged oak). Paint the surface with that color. OK, stand back and don’t have a heart attack! Yes, it looks totally freaky and you are saying “Victoria, you are completely OUT OF YOUR MIND!). No, I’m not. Pinky swear!

Go back to that piece of wood and now concentrate on it’s graining only. See how in some places it’s straight? Some areas it’s wavy and some areas are in semi-circle patterns? You want to mimic that. No, you don’t have to do it exactly the way that piece of wood is, there are no real rules since every single piece of wood you will ever see will be completely different in it’s graining.

Now, take a deep brown glaze and apply a thin coat over the surface (work in smaller areas at a time to prevent it from drying as you create your masterpiece! But as you move on to your next section, be sure to make each section “match” the one before).

With a “fan brush” (an artists brush where the head is flat and shaped like a ladies fan), stroke it through the glaze, allowing the brush to create “groves” where the background color shows through. Glaze allows you time to work to get it just the way you want it. That’s the beautiful part about it. Create your graining as you see it in your mind.

Now, let it dry, apply two coats of sealer and you have created a natural looking wood surface!

Glazes are wonderful since you can do many faux finish techniques more easily with them. There are different types of glazes and typically are available in either tinted or clear versions where you can add your own color.

Glazes:

Acrylic Glaze:
These are water based that you can use acrylics or even wall paint with.
Oil Glaze:
You will want to use alkyd paint for tinting the glaze.

Faux Finishing Leather look:

This is a fabulous finish that can create a very rich looking item from a cheap version in no time! How about that “build it yourself” dresser you put in the kid’s room last year made out of pressboard and Formica! (Yes, I have one myself!).

Pre-paint the surface a lighter shade than your glaze. For instance, paint it a medium brown then use dark brown glaze over the top of it.

With a dry sea sponge or even an old towel wrapped around your hand, simply press and lift the sponge or towel in to the glaze to remove some of it. Do small areas and then ball up a piece of thin paper, like tissue paper and press over the top of the sponged area to create lines and wrinkles. Continue in sections until done. It’s that easy!

Rag Rolling

Rag rolling can be super fun and create soft yet very dramatic walls. I tend to use two tones of the same color (for instance, light beige and medium beige). You want a nice blend so stick to colors that closely match. I NEVER use contrasting colors together (such as red and blue) since it’s difficult on the eyes, hard to decorate around and you absolutely cannot blend two contrasting colors together to create a soft look.

Apply your base coat and allow to dry. Pour a small amount of your second color into a roller pan and take any old rag you have laying around to do the job. Have more handy as needed.

Dip the rag into the paint and wring it out. Now, roll it up in to a long tube and roll it down the wall from top to bottom. Vary your pressure to create varied effects. You can also choose to simply “pounce” the rag for a more “blotchy” effect.
Change the rag as it builds up with paint. It’s best to use rags that are dry rather than rinsing one out and using it again as this will dilute your paint.

You can also mix your second color with glaze if you would like to create a more translucent effect over the top of the base color. Usually 2 parts paint to one part glaze.

Reverse ragging:

This is fun! And super easy: Apply the base coat to the wall and allow to dry. Apply your second color mixed with glaze. Now, instead of dipping your rag in the second color and ragging it on, you are going to “rag it off”! Simply take your dry rag and begin pouncing or rolling the dry rag down the wall to remove bits of the glaze mixture. This is fast and beautiful!

Sponging:

Sponging camouflages imperfections in a wall and is a great way for absolute beginners to get a feel for faux finishing.

Again, you will be using two colors near the same shade. Start by painting the wall the background color. Pour a small amount of the 2^nd color into a roller pan, wet a sponge, wring it out good and dry, dip it in to the paint and now tap it on to newspaper to distribute it evenly in the sponge.

Always do smaller sections at a time rather than trying to tackle the entire wall all at once. Use the same pressure throughout the entire project so you get good, even results. Now start pouncing! Your key is to “blend” the two colors rather than to just cover the base coat with the second color.

When you get to the corners, simply use a smaller section of sponge and completely fill them in.

For best results, choose shades within the same color. For instance, use two blues or two browns or two beiges rather than mixing green and purple or blue and yellow. Your results will be much more pleasing to the eye and much easier to decorate around.

Faux Granite:

When I first began learning faux finishing, I would look at actual items (such as granite counter tops, real wood, real marble) and then mimic those finishes. I suggest you beginners do the same.

In looking at real granite, you will see a main base color (black, pale beige and so on). That is the color you will paint first and allow to dry.

Most granite has at least two different colors in addition to the background. Examine it closely (buy a tile from your local home store and take it home and study it!).

As you will see by your sample choices in the store, variations of techniques can be applied to achieve the same looks. In most cases, granite appears to be “blotches” of various colors, which can be obtained through “sponging”. In other cases, they are simply myriads of “dots” gotten by flicking a toothbrush loaded with paint with your finger to “splatter” the paint over the surface. (Wear gloves and protect surrounding surfaces). And yet others are more blended streaks of colors that you can achieve from wide paintbrush strokes or dragging a sponge across the surface. Whatever the look, you can achieve a very realistic finish depending on the application needed.

With granite, each color appears to be “solid” against the next so you’re not looking for a “translucent” look here. So glaze is not necessary. Splatter, sponge or stroke each color on separately until you get the look you were after then seal with the appropriate sealer (as mentioned above).

Basic Marble is as easy to do as any other faux finish. Sure, there are all kinds of techniques and tips to make it look incredibly real but here, you will get the basics. Further Internet research or a class at your local stencil, craft or art store will serve to perfect your technique. What you will learn here is the simplified and the “a bit more complicated” versions:

As with granite, marble has it’s main background color (black, white, brown, gray and so on) and then it’s secondary colors. In some cases, that could be just strokes of white or black as with black and white marbles. In other cases it could be a rich brown or deep gray depending on the type of marble chosen.

So let’s start with the easy one. Firstly, you will want to do just a bit of practice on the veining before you tackle it on your project but it’s easy and you’ll get the hang of it in no time at all… how do you do that? With a feather! That’s right! You want a good long one (approx 8-10”) and can get it at most craft stores if there isn’t one just hanging out in the yard from that blasted crow that wakes you up every morning.

To practice, dip it’s side feathers in any color of undiluted acrylic paint and stroke it to the side and down. Experiment by making your lines wavy and straight, angled and vertical, horizontal and so on. You’re not trying to make a simple straight line, but rather to create a “free flowing” pattern, allowing the dipped feathers to separate as they deposit color. Try to mimic the veining seen in your marble sample.

Simplified marble:

Paint the surface with your main color and allow to dry. Let’s say that color is black.

Now, apply the veining with the feather through out the surface. It needn’t cover every square inch, in fact, you don’t want it to! Again, plot out in your mind, based on your sample, where and how your veining will go.

Give depth to your veining by lightly brushing across the wet veins with a dry artists brush. You want to blend the first veins slightly. Then add thinner veining with areas of it actually going over the top of the first veins you created.

To finish, apply two or more coats of high gloss polyurethane.

I hope these tips and techniques have started your mind working and taken just a bit of the fear out of giving it a try. It’s a blast and in no time you will be faux finishing everything in site with much success!

Have a great summer everyone!

Victoria

Glazes: Acrylic Glaze: These are water based that you can use acrylics or even wall paint with. Oil Glaze: You will want to use alkyd paint for tinting the glaze.

Glazes:

Acrylic Glaze:
These are water based that you can use acrylics or even wall paint with.
Oil Glaze:
You will want to use alkyd paint for tinting the glaze.